The Emerald Lakes of Tongariro Crossing.

We will travel to to the heart of the North Island in the Tongariro. This national park is classified by UNESCO in two different categories. For the quality of its natural landscapes of course, but also for its cultural and spiritual heritage.

The trail crosses an alpine desert, circumvents volcanoes, descends into a crater, bypasses emeralds lakes and hot pools with geothermal activities and finally ends in a subtropical forest with streams.

The fame of the Tongariro Crossing is based on the beauty and great variety of its landscapes. With White Island, this is the mecca of volcanic tourism in New Zealand.

We are at the extremity of the Pacific Ring of Fire. The trek crosses land where volcanoes are still active. Of course, activity does not mean they are erupting with lava flows. You are not going to die here, this is not a dangerous place, but these volcanoes awake many times each century and are constantly monitored by experts.

Of course, exploring a volcanic land is an activity you should prepare seriously. One just cannot afford to come with hands in the pockets. There is a minimum of precautions to observe for such a trip and a minimum of organization.

Each year, nearly 100,000 hikers follow this great walk. The total distance is about 19.4 km and most people will be able to do it in just one day.. If you are reasonably fit, it will take an average of seven hours to complete the full path!

All these remarks are not intended to discourage you! The Tongariro Crossing is a must-do of New Zealand, and anyone in good physical condition should do it once in his life. The breathtaking beauty of the Tongariro should be enough to motivate most of you.

I myself will guide you and present all the challenges and difficulties you can expect on your way.

At the very end of this guide I will also introduce you Ben the Kiwi, our best expert of the Tongariro who will address the more technical issues and answer to your questions.

It will be a great opportunity to review the equipment issues, the safety rules, the weather conditions,, or the required fitness. After reading this article and with the advices of Ben, you'll be ready for the Tongariro Crossing.

Meet me at the departure point of the trek for an incredible adventure in New Zealand!

Each season has its advantages and disadvantages. But I recommend to plan your trek during summer time and to start early in the morning.

The starting point is at the Mangatepopo car park and the final goal is on the opposite side of the Tongariro. The itinerary could be done in reverse direction, but it would imply add an extra hour of walk (trust me, I have done it). We'll follow the classic itinerary today, because we must not miss our return shuttle at the end of the track.

Our first step consists to reach Soda Springs. We will follow a rocky path along a stream. Wooden planks facilitate walking during this part which is just a kind of easy warm-up for the muscles.

The eastern flanks of the volcano being exposed to low temperatures, dry vegetation is limited to heather and tussock (a variety of bunch grass that grows on wet soils).

We will cross a bridge about twenty minutes from the start. Mangatepopo Hut has dry toilets, but does not provide drinking water. By the way, remember that you will never have the opportunity to fill your water bottle during the entire trip! A whole section of Ben's advices is also dedicated to the equipment and provisions to put in your backpack.

Thereafter, the path will climb gently to reach Soda Springs. The gradual disappearance of plants announces a change of relief. We are passing through ancient rivers of lava solidified. The recent flows can be easily distinguished by their dark colors and the total absence of vegetation.

At dawn, you're likely to walk in a light fog. Surrounded by all these strange volcanic rocks, you will understand the choice of the New Zealand film director Peter Jackson.

This dark area was chosen to represent the Mordor in the Lord of the Rings trilogy.

We are approaching Soda Springs with a complete change of scenery. The higher we climb the more the panorama reveals the extent of the lava fields.

This is an opportunity to take some pictures and nibbles some energy bars before proceeding to the toughest part of the Tongariro.

Another trail leads to an alternative trek towards Mount Ngauruhoe.

For four hours' round trip, this additional itinerary escalates the volcano and is not suitable for beginners. We'll discuss it another time if you don't mind.

The Ngauruhoe is a complex volcano, with many craters carved by ancient glaciers and eruptions.

One must realize that 18 meters' deep lava rivers were flowing here! One year after the last eruption, a hand contact with the solidified lava was still hot.

Keep your calm, if there was a risk of eruption, access to trek would have been closed. Volcanic activity is monitored 24/24 h and this kind of lava is known to be extremely slow.

Pardon me to address the issue, but the toilets installed in Soda Springs are the last you will see for at least four hours... Please take your time to regain some strenght, because we are now ready to climb towards the south crater.

The ascent takes place at the junction between the mounts Tongariro and Ngauruhoe.

This is the easiest way yet it is called Devil's Staircase. After all, we are in the Mordor of The Lord of the Rings!

From a security point of view, there is no reason to be afraid with this part. Just watch your steps and take your time.

The ground is covered with rocks of a few centimeters known as slags. They are spewed by the volcano when it is angry. The key is to move forward calmly, taking the time to make small breaks to catch your breath.

Most people will agree to say that this part is the most tiring of the entire Tongariro Crossing. Fortunately, the unobstructed view on the ancient lava fields justifies your efforts.

In the distance, you can see mount Taranaki that resembles Mount Fuji (a trick used for “The Last Samurai” with Tom Cruise). The smoke that escapes from the distant crater seems to convey a message.

Maori legend says that at the dawn of time, four volcanoes warriors occupied the region. They fought to win the affection of Ruapehu, a beautiful mountain. In a flood of flames, Mount the Tongariro defeated his opponents. One of them, the Mount Taranaki has sought refuge 180 km west, destroying everything in its path.

Since then, volcanoes continue to defy each other. They growl and sometimes erupt to mark their hostility. The Maori warriors have long considered the smoke of volcanoes as signs of a coming war.

After 400 meters of effort we will finally set foot on the flat ground of the south crater. If you take your time to breathe deeply, you should be able to recover in no time.

We are approaching one of the most memorable moments of the hike and of your entire trip to New Zealand.

If it has rained the day before, the ground can be a little difficult. The soil consists mainly of sand and rocks. In fact, it is not a crater but an old basin dug by a glacier.

The rocks were deposited by volcanic eruptions. Depending on the season you may find some remaining ice layers, so be careful.

We will resume our climb. The bad news is that the ascension extends over 300 meters and is a little grueling. The good news is that we are on the last real climbing part of the trek. Once this is done, the rest of the trip will be done on level ground or downhill most of the time.

The east wind will be your main opponent during the climb. If you bothered to cover you well, this should not discourage you.

Follow the path marked out by the signposts and you will soon pass this difficulty.

A few moments before reaching the top, you will notice that the path divides in two branches. There is another hike of 2 hours (round trip) which allows to climb the Mount Tongariro. We will focus on our itinerary, but Ben the Kiwi will give more details about this secondary hike later.

Congratulations, you've reached the culmination of the Tongariro Crossing at a 1886 meters’ altitude.

Go to the right to admire the red crater of Mount Ngauruhoe. Its bright color comes from the oxidized iron present in the rock. Have you ever seen such a sight?

Some smoke occasionally escapes the gaping crater. A sulfur smell reminds that this young volcano (5,000 years old only) is still active. Its last major eruption was in 1954 and lasted for almost a year. The most recent in August 2012 caused the temporary closure of the trek.

Tolkien's fans will recognize the mountain of fate (Orodruin) from The Lord of the Rings.

This is where Frodo and Sam are venturing to destroy the One Ring of Sauron with the unintentional help of Gollum. However, Peter Jackson's teams were not allowed to film the volcano's crater because it is considered as a sacred place by the Maoris.

According to a legend, the great Ngatoroirangi wanted to rule this region. An ambition also shared by his rival named Hapekituarangi.

Both sorcerers came to an agreement and decided that the region should belong to the only one who could contemplate it entirely. Ngatoroirangi began to climb the Tongariro before his opponent. In order not to succumb to the cold wind that paralyzed its members, the sorcerer summoned the sacred fire from the bowels of the Earth.

Keep a safe distance with the edge of the crater and admire the breathtaking views all around you. The Rangipo desert that extends far away is impressive. The red crater of the Ngauruhoe looks like a Martian landscape. But the discovery of the emerald lakes of the central crater will be the great reward for all your efforts.

One must beware of the volcanic slags, because these rocks sometimes slip under the feet. Remember to warn people who are walking in front of you if you dislodge a big rock.

Remember to look occasionally behind you for not staying in the axis of another hiker. I think I can guess what you're thinking ...

I'm subject to vertigo, and on my first visit, I confess I was a bit nervous…

In a condition of stress, many people stiffen, which is alas the best way to facilitate the falls.

You should relax, because you aren't going to descend the slope like a snowball. There are too many asperities for that to be possible.

And if you had the great idea to take trekking poles with you, this part will be far more easy and fast than what you could imagine.

Even without this equipment, and if you take your time (nobody is judging you), this is far more easy than it seems.

The emerald lakes are named Ngarotopounamu, a maori name meaning “pounamu lakes”. The pounamu being a stone that resembles jade. You will find many of these stones in most souvenir shops of the country. Three lakes can be observed: one large and two small. Their particular shade is related to mineral acids. When it's cold enough, the lakes can produce steam and a smell of sulfur. I should point out that these wonders may be hidden under ice during winter: It's a bit disappointing, but the spectacle of the snowy crater compensate for their absence.

There is no need to say that the lake water is not drinkable and this is the worst place in the world for swimming.

You have plenty of choice to find a large rock to sit and picnic.

You can consider that the difficult part of the hike is over. This does not mean there's nothing to see after, on the contrary. We are only halfway and if you knew what awaits us beyond the central crater ...

The ascension to leave the crater will be brief. Before continuing, take a last look behind you. The tiny dots that move in the distance are not ants. These are the latest newcomers who begin the great descent that we borrowed. This should give you an idea of the scale!

On the other side of the crater, you will discover a beautiful blue lake. His real name is Te Wai-whakaata-o-te-Rangihiroa, “Rangihiroa's mirror”. Discovered in 1750 by a Maori explorer, this lake is sacred (tapu) and it is forbidden to eat or drink nearby.

After walking along the shore of the lake, the path continues on the side of the crater. We'll reach soon the other face of the mountain.

What a sight! Lake Rotorua and Mount Pihanga offer a breathtaking panorama!

Further north, Lake Taupo occupies the caldera of an ancient supervolcano. Its latest explosion has changed the face of the world and covered with ash much of the country. If the subject interests you, you should read my other article about the Huka Falls.

The descent takes place sheltered from the wind. The foam and bushes begin to reappear. Finally, tussocks cover the floor and the temperature rises again.

The itinerary continues in zigzag up to Ketetahi Hut, an alpine shelter originally built for hikers of the Tongariro Track (a 3-day walk in the region).

The last eruption of Ngauruhoe projected firebombs at several kilometers! Some fell on the refuge. This explains the prohibition to occupy this place to spend the night. Anyway, it was not our intention. We will merely use the toilet and the benches to have a rest.

You should start to feel the the burden of fatigue. But there is no reason to speed up, especially if you are ahead of the shuttle timing. Stay as long as you can to enjoy the view. Once you have regained strength, you can finish the trek easily.

This land belongs to Maori tribes Ngati Hikairo and Ngati Tuwharetoa. A holy ground that we're not allowed to cross and even less to photograph.

The Maoris have a close relationship with nature. The Tongariro was given to the New Zealand government for he ensures the preservation of this sacred heritage.

You will have to content yourself to stay on the path, but do not be too disappointed. You can observe the bright yellow sulfur rocks.

The last eruption of 2012 somehow “embellished” le paysage. Tons of fresh ash fell on the region like snow. Thousands of projectiles were propelled at over a kilometer where they dug craters. And a new lake was even formed!

The damage caused by a lahar are particularly apparent. This term refers to a torrent of mud and rocks rolling down the slopes of a volcano. The phenomenon is as impressive as destructive.

The vegetation will become increasingly high until we reach the bush.

The pristine forest, an oasis of greenery and freshness is a blessing. After the lunar landscape of volcanoes, the contrast is striking. Fortunately, the forest has been untouched by the last eruption of Ngauruhoe.

Journey's end often takes place on planks and a few stairs facilitate the descent.

We follow the course of the Mangatetipua Stream, which litteraly means “the enchanted river”. Do not let the name mislead you: the water is not drinkable, contaminated by minerals from the close volcanoes.

There remains just half an hour of peaceful walk listening to the sounds of the forest and the sound of the stream.

I would recommend you to take your time, but at this point of the day, you are probably exhausted and you just want to finish the trek to have a rest.

If you still have some energy, I just want you to know that a small detour of a few minutes allows to reach a beautiful waterfall.

What more can be said? You have reached the Ketetahi car park. All you have to do is to wait for the return shuttle, sitting on a bench or lying in the grass. You finally defeated the the Tongariro Crossing, walk through an incredible variety of scenery all day long. Now you can select the photos of the trek to impress your friends!

Let's consider the trip we made for a moment. If you add up my time estimations, you will get a total of about 6 hours. Only good walkers who make very short breaks can keep this pace.

For the others (in other words almost everyone), it will take one or two hours more on average. No big deal, you should keep an eye on your watch.

If you have achieved a stage of the circuit within the allotted time, you can automatically grant yourself a fifteen minutes' break (or even more, depending of the shuttle planned at the end).

Don't rush, because a classic mistake is to chain the steps between Devil's Staircase and the red crater without having a break.

As I promised you, you'll meet Ben that will answer all your questions. For once, the reading of Ben's practical advice at the end of the article is not optional.

If you intend to do Tongariro Alpine Crossing, you should read all his advice. Before leaving you with him, there are just few additional points I would like to address.

For your convenience, I insist that you use trekking poles (rentals possible in Ohakune or Taupo for $10). I can assure you that during the descent between the red crater and the emerald lakes they will make all the difference and spare your knees.

Walking sticks are not accessories dedicated to seniors, even the best backpackers use them for mountain treks.

I consider the Tongariro Crossing is a trek that can be followed by teenagers and seniors as well. Those who have had the chance to live this adventure will all tell you the same thing: “It was tiring but amazing all along”.

Alas, there is a tiny minority usually coming with hands in pockets, without equipment, without provisions and without monitoring the weather before the departure. Kiwipal has a duty to warn these people of the danger.

Please consider the safety issues seriously, and nothing will spoil your fun. Then, the pride of having overcome all the difficulties will remain in your memory for the rest of your existence. But if you have doubts about your ability to do this trek, why not ask the advice of a professional guide?

You know, Kiwipal works hard to help you make the most of your stay in New Zealand. Nothing makes us happier than receiving your travel photos.

Once you have striped the Tongariro line from your to-do list, please remember to send us proof of your achievement. The trek evolves over time, and if you have noticed some changes, please let us know.

The Tongariro National Park is not so far from the Huka Falls, the geysers of Rotorua or even Hot Water Beach. New destinations that we will be pleased to share with you! I say no more and I give way to Ben for his practical advices.