Cape Reinga, at the End of the World.

A couple who terminates their trip after two or three weeks has generally traveled more than 3000 km by car. Adding a 400 km stage to get to the northland is often beyond their strength.

Let's not forget those who after landing on the airport rush on the Bay of Island, Rotorua or the Tongariro Crossing.

All these travelers have one thing in common: they are going to miss one of the most beautiful visits in New Zealand. So to avoid doing same, I'll show you that Cape Reinga deserves a hundred time your visit.

Just a word to mention the splendid Kauri forest in Puketi : it is on the road, it can be done as well, but it’s a visit to be covered in detail in another article. Arrival at Kaitaia 4 h later. I must confess that it will be of little interest if you do not withdraw money or refuel (you will soon be at 100 kilometers from the first inhabited area).

After leaving the city and 5 km further, comes the first surprise of the day: a huge beach and traces of tyre on the sand.

You may have guessed, we will carve the road on the beach. Nicknamed the Ninety mile beach, it covers actually 56 miles and not 90 miles (who knows why?)

First possibility: you are in a hurry. In this case you can avoid the beach and continue by road. It's a beautiful journey, but this is no longer the same trip.

This alternative track gives you the opportunity to admire kauris, the centenary and emblematic trees of the New Zealand.

Second solution, you are equipped with four driving wheels or the owner of your vehicle. You will be able to rush your car on the beach while listening music. But if you have a rental car, access may be prohibited if the insurance does not allow it (same problem for the camper vans).

You may sometimes cross junked cars three quarter-sunk in the sand; thereforeobserve the speed limit (100 km/h max) otherwise you risk damaging your vehicle! And remember to go on the beach only 2 hours before or after high tide.

The most reasonable thing to do is to follow the traces left by previous vehicles and enjoy the landscape.

Resist the urge to put a toe in water (it is cold with treacherous currents and whirlpools). If you're lucky, you'll come across wild horses.

To have tested both, I recommend that you should instead leave the car in Kaitaia, and take a seat in a special 90 mile beach bus. You will be able to enjoy the comments ofthe driver who will tell you the beautiful Maori legends of the Northland.

I must warn you, if your level of English leaves a lot to be desired, you will understand one-third of what the guide tells in his beard. However, the atmosphere is great, relaxed, and stopovers are planned to enjoy the beach. Regardless of the path you have chosen, your journey brings you closer to the ends of the world.

Regardless of the climate, Cape Reinga will leave you speechless. Visible at 48 km offshore, the lighthouse overhangs the ocean. Take a look straight away to watch a unique panorama.

You are in the demarcation line between a sea and an ocean!

Look closely, and you’ll notice that the Tasman Sea is colored blue/green while the Pacific Ocean is tinted blue/grey.

The ocean and the sea seem to be fighting for supremacy. The waves can reach 10 m high at the point of contact between the sea and the Ocean.

You have truly reached the end of the world, and the top limit of the North Island (to be honest, the North Cape Cliffs are a little bit more to the North, but it is a prohibited reserve). There is absolute calm and the sound of the sea gets to you stifled by the wind. Nearthe lighthouse, a signpost precise the distances to the main cities and you’ll realize that London is 18029 km from here!

Pay attention to the side of the road, in the bushes or ditches. You will have a chance to see a mokomoko.

This very cute lizard is one of the rare endemic species you may encounter at Cape Reinga. Some information panels will give you more details near the lighthouse, you just need to know that there are many rare species in the surrounding area.

If you just can't stop watching the ocean, there is a good reason...

Observe the rocky promontory near the ocean and locate the tree that is tilted into the hollow.This sacred pohutukawa is 800 years old!

It is by jumping from these Pohutukawa branches that souls dive into the sea to join “Hawaiki”, the land of the ancestors.

Some Maori will tell you that when the fog covers the Cape, one can hear souls whispering among themselves.

You're on a sacred ground that involves a few basic rules: just as Fast Food cannot be eaten in a church, one cannot have picnic in the Cape Reinga. Keep your distance from the sacred pohutukawa (hardly accessible anyway). And of course, you cannot taste the water from the sacred spring used for funeral rites only.

Once covered with kauri trees, the Cape is currently undergoing rehabilitation. New Zealanders have not done things partially by replanting 150,000 trees and plants. Like many visitors, you can make your contribution.

Plant a tree for a few dollars. Thanks to the GPS coordinates that will be communicated to you, you can find your tree in a few years.

And before leaving, do not forget to post a little card in the mailbox near the parking. It will be stamped “Cape Reinga”, and in our digital era, it’s sometime pleasant to do it the old fashioned way.

I do not know if this is because of the panorama, the religious atmosphere, or contributing to the beauty of nature by planting a tree... but I felt relaxed as ever. During other visits, I sometimes saw people with tears in their eyes while smiling. All these emotions (except if you have a heart of stone) will give you a kind of positive energy and you’ll need to go stretch your legs before you continue your journey.

The starting point is naturally set at Cape Reinga. The 3000 km of “Te Arararoa” (the great walk) run through the two islands from North to South, passing through every point of interest of the country.

Special Huts for backpackers are available, and the paths are carefully marked out and maintained by volonteers.

If your muscles are made of steel and if four months of walking at the rate of 25 km per day does not frighten you, then you can go on an adventure.

Well, if you did not come for that, you however have easy hikes on-site. They are not very difficult, but you must stay on the path if you are walking along cliffs (otherwise it is a one-way ticket to the sacred pohutukawa if you see what I mean!).

In 45 minutes you can reach the beach of Te Werahi (very easy track). Another hike towards Tapotupotu will make you go through the Sandy Bay Beach where you can even swim and picnic (plan 1 h 30 to reach the beach, and the sale for the return trip).

While some people will see an opportunity to play rugby on the sand, I’d rather use my good old Frisbee instead.

The Cape Maria Van Diemen is about 2 hours by road and is worth it, but the best of the day is still to come, so think carefully before you engage further.

White sand flowing between the toes is a true wonder, and there is no risk of coming across a snake or a scorpion, because there are no dangerous species in New Zealand!

Local sports include the renting of surfboards to hurtle down the dunes. You can lie down yourself head forward on the board, (or sit on it if you feel scared), and off you go!

Guaranteed sensations and assured giggles because you are eventually going to wallow in front of everybody.

I once met a local guy who gave me two great advices. The first one is evident but do not forget to close your mouth when gliding with your head forward in order not to swallow sand! If you want to be naughty, don’t tell you friend…

The second trick is to know that some boards that are faster than others. Do not hesitate to ask for a “faster” board, and believe me, it makes all the difference. With a good board, momentum and a steep dune, you'll have great fun. If you are afraid, just watch my video and you'll see that everyone can do it.

After all these emotions it is likely that you be hungry. Fortunately, you may stop at Mangonui on the way back.

It is claimed that it is the best fish & chips in the world, but maybe because too many people say so, you may expect too much from it.

I prefer to say that if you traveled the 90 mile beach, met the souls of your ancestors at the Cape and spent the rest of the day hiking and surfing on the dunes... then this fish & chips will definitely be the best of your life.

Don't let yourself be frightened by the duration of the trip.

In couple you may take turns, and with even more drivers, it becomes a pleasure cruise. The splendid landscape is a time travel machine that scrolls at high speed.

Yesterday again a Kiwipal visitor asked me when this journey should be scheduled during a New Zealand trip. At the very beginning of the journey, it is a little like eating after skipping a meal: just perfect.

At the end of a stay, the road will be a little too far. You can reach Kaitaia by plane, if you still have enough cash. Otherwise, you should motivate yourself: your holidays are almost over and this is a great opportunity to conclude the journey on a high note.

Our dear Ben (who is a better guide than me) has accepted to answer practical questions below. If you plan to go to the Cape Reinga, you should contact him to get more advices.

And if you want to make me happy, send your best photos to Kiwipal, and they will be published on the website (especially if you are on the pictures, it's nice to see our readers for real).