The Whales of the Kaikoura Peninsula.

The snowy mountaintops of the Seaward Kaikoura Range are few kilometers from here This one of the rare places in the world where a photographer can reunite a sea and a mountain range on the same picture. 

The small town of 3600 inhabitants hosts millions of travelers every year. The postcard landscape does not explain everything!

Kaikoura is known as the best place in New Zealand to admire sea lions, swim with dolphins (just like in the Bay of Islands), but especially to observe whales!

I will be your guide today. The program that I developed is based on my countless trips in the area. 

It's a carefully planned itinerary, conceived to show you the most entertaining and original activities of the region. 

The flagship activity will, of course, the 3-hour-long excursion by boat to come close to the peninsula whales. 

After what, I have planned a gastronomic experience and a ride around the peninsula. But those who are familiar with Kiwipal, know that I always reserve a good surprise for the end of the trip...

I precise that this trip requires no special equipment at all.

Even walking shoes are not required! You should, however, bring a windbreaker and a warm sweater for the boat, and some snacks and water bottles in your backpack. The departure is set at 7:30 AM, and you should go to bed early the night before, to get a good rest before a long day.

The whales leave their hunting grounds of the Antarctic to reach the subtropical waters of the Pacific Ocean. 

They benefit from the Kaikoura Peninsula and its submarine canyon of 1500 m deep!

The encounter between hot and cold currents is pushing the fishes toward the surface, and the whales are coming to eat them. It seems to be the perfect spot for the whales, alas, the proximity to the coast facilitated the work of the whale-hunters, threatening the whole species of extinction in the past century.

Fortunately, the Giant Sperm Whales more usually known as "Whales" are now protected by law. 

It is the most widespread whale specie in Kaikoura, but blue, humpback or southern whales (or even fearsome orcas) can also be spotted near the peninsula, depending of the season.

The tension is palpable when boarding, and most passengers rushes to the seats closest to the windows.

You should not follow them and take a seat rather in a center row at the back, where the boat is far more stable.

We head at a brisk pace off the peninsula, and some passengers are already showing signs of seasickness.

The weather channel announced a good day (otherwise the company would have notified us). The staff on board is taking good care of the passengers, and they are very attentive throughout the journey. 

Some days, when the wind blows hard, the hollow of the waves can reach 3 meters high!

Don't worry, I was smart enough to purchase some tablets against seasickness at a pharmacy before boarding. I can share it with you if you feel bad!

We are navigating since half an hour on the ocean and you are maybe concerned by the absence of the so highly expected whales...

Don't worry, the staff has an almost sure-fire method to locate them... The captain uses a special underwater microphone to spot the whale songs. 

A whale song can reach 230 decibels (the whales use it to stun the other fishes).

Indicatively, the launch of a space shuttle generates only 180 decibels! (if you are not believing me you should check Wikipedia.)

Here is one coming at the starboard side of the ship! The captain shut down the engines and everyone rushes to the upper deck! The whale is only 20 meters from the ship, and we can easily distinguish its back above the waves.

The captain seems to recognize them. They can live more than 70 years and have distinctive signs. Remember to bring binoculars to examine the creature. This an immersive experience, far better than a TV program about whales as good as it may be.

Did you see the whale's water jet that was about two meters high? At first sight, I would say that this whale is at least 16 meters-long, which is almost as much as the size of our boat! But that's not extraordinary, because this is the average whale size in Kaikoura Peninsula and the weight of four elephants!

If you have goose bumps, I can assure you: whales do not attack humans... but are able to defend themselves against aggressors!

Read the story of the sinking of the Essex when you'll get back on dry land. This drama has inspired Herman Melville to write his novel Moby-Dick in 1851.

I could tell you what happened to the crew, but this would be quite inappropriate while we are still at sea.

The whale is ready to plunge! Choose burst mode on your camera so you do not miss the gigantic tail, until it disappears beneath the water surface.

We won’t see the same whale again! As I said, these mammals can stay two hours underwater. 

We have already spotted another whale, and the spectacle will happen again and again until it's time to go back.

Don't be too sad, a breathtaking surprise is waiting for us on our way back. 

Whales share the Kaikoura Peninsula with dusky dolphins. Today they are nearly one hundred, but they are sometimes more than the double to escort the ship during the return journey. These dolphins are 1.70 m long, and they love to perform some spectacular stunts. After so many emotions, it is a pleasure for us to be on dry land again. We will take the car to reach our next activity, but a short walk will help us to regain your minds first.

When Westerners have landed in the 18th century, they discovered the ruins of 14Maori fortified villages on the hilltops.

Today, Kaikoura is just a tourist city without any special charm. You'll find motels alongside some interesting curiosities like the colorful wooden carved Pouwhenua at the entrance of the South Bay. It represents Maui fishing the House of Tangaroa, the god of the sea. 

This walk should dispel the agitation of the sea trip, and whet the appetite. This is the ideal time to reveal you the origins of the city name.

The explorer Tamaki-te-rangi was searching his three wives who ran away from his house. The legend says that he made a stop in the peninsula to eat lobsters.

The word Kaikoura meaning “lobster meal” in the Maori language, and this is also the specialty of the region.

Lately, I had been criticized by some readers for being too focused on meat restaurants.

This time, we'll discover a seafood restaurant on Fyffe Quay. You are not dreaming, we are going to lunch in this tiny stand outdoors. It's a little secret I want to share with you.

Kaikoura Seafood BBQ is located right next to the beach and the fields of sheep.

With such a panorama, we forgive him readily his few chairs and plastic tables in the shade of umbrellas. I have the feeling that you are not convinced yet, but trust me!

This is a gourmet address! You can taste lobsters at $50, which is half the price you would pay in the best restaurants.

Saint-Jacques, mussels, garlic shrimp (everything was fished the same day) are grilled to preserve their delicate flavor.

It is known that even some Allblacks players come here to eat lobsters.

Let’s cross our fingers altogether, hoping that this good address won't sell its soul to the devil, and will continue to serve such quality food at such low price. In the meantime, enjoy your feast under the great blue sky. Once you feel rested, we will go on an adventure in the Kaikoura Peninsula.

At Point Kean car park, it sometimes happens that an embarrassed tourist has to wake up a 250 kg fur seal asleep in front of his car.

The males are usually placid but they can become aggressive when disturbed... Keep a safe distance of about 10 meters.

Many seals rest on the warm rocks, and some blue penguins come back from the beach after their bath.

The trail includes a climb to an observation deck in the form of waka (a boat in Maori). The panorama combines green hills, the deep blue of the ocean, and a mountain range covered by eternal snows. One feels transported to the Lord of the rings.

Large panels provide information about the history of the region, geology and animals living along the coast. This part of the peninsula was once covered with forests. Then we will explore Whalers Bay along the cliffs carved by erosion. 

A wooden staircase leads to the beach of the whale-hunters where the tide sometimes reveals giant whale bones buried in the sand. But it is the “Sugarloaf” you should see first. This strange rock formation carved by the ocean and the wind for thousands of years is famous in New Zealand.

The seal colony which lies just beside can be located by its strong smell. I often asked myself how these creatures can release such “perfume” while spending their life taking baths. Less fragrant, but much louder, the huge assembly of red-billed gulls recalls a famous movie by Alfred Hitchcock. 

This is not the only bird specie in the region, we will find many others along the path to South Bay. You can photograph albatrosses and Hutton's shearwater who fish off the coast, before returning to their nests in the mountains.

We just need to follow the signs toward Tom's Track to return to the car. It is 4:30 PM and we should reach Christchurch early in the evening. But we are not leaving right now because I promised you a surprise before the end of the trip and I always keep my promises.

The trail begins under a railway track and runs along a creek in the forest. Ten minutes later, the sound of water and strange noises are heard behind the bushes! The Ohau stream, which some people call “the nursery”, is my great surprise for you guys!

Baby fur seals enjoy a large pool of freshwater to play and learn to dive. The ideal is to come in September when the fur seal babies are more than a hundred. In summer, they are still about thirty to take advantage of this little paradise.

Able to reach 380 m in depth underwater for more than 15 minutes snorkeling, these seals have a double fur and can live up to 17 years. It is a delight to see them swimming and jumping out of the water! I can teach you how to easily distinguish males from females. These gentlemen are twice bigger and their vocalizations differ significantly.

Don't worry, most of the fur seals are completely indifferent to our presence.

But some may be surprised of the attention we’re giving to them, as if their behavior was usual. By the way, if you find a free rock to sit down, you should not miss the opportunity.

Don't be afraid! Some baby seals are friendly and wish to sniff your feet out of curiosity.

Do not try to pet this cute animal, because it usually doesn't appreciate being touched. Some tourists are bitten each year because they confuse the place with a circus...

Even with their large cute eyes, and their docile tune, fur seals are still wild animals. You should never stand between a seal and the sea where they could flee in case of danger. Avoid any abrupt moves and everything will be fine. Fur seals have much more to fear from us than the contrary.

The hunters almost exterminated these poor beasts during the 19th century. The species is fortunately protected since 1978, and you are already lucky to be so close of fur seals. But it's time to go! Many other wonders await us in New Zealand.

Kaikoura is visited by travelers from all over the world, so remember to book your tickets in advance if you want to see whales. This advice is even more valid during the October Seafest festival, where the city is crowded by tourists who come to taste lobsters.

Another good advice to follow is to book the first whale excursion of the day, because there is less wind on the sea, and therefore fewer big waves.

And the dolphins are known to be more active between six and nine o'clock in the morning. However, there is also an advantage to book a later tour: the previous excursions gave to the captain an opportunity to track the whale’s position, which increases the chances to admire more of these giant creatures.

Are you prone to seasickness? The question should be considered before boarding on a long cruise. The ocean is often waved at Kaikoura, and the weather can change suddenly. After the article, our friend Ben the Kiwi will give you some practical tips on this matter.

Did you know that you can also fly by helicopter over Kaikoura's whales?

In contrast to boat trips, booking a flying tour allows to admire these creatures with far more details and without seasickness. This is the best approach, but it is sadly twice more expensive! Today, the whalers have swapped the harpoon for the camera.