Doubtful Sound, a Fjord at the End of the World.

On the maritime map, drawn day after day, the fjord is named "Doubtful Harbour". A few decades later, the whalers will change the name and call it "Doubtful Sound".

This majestic fjord remained virtually unexplored for almost 700 years. Sir Charles John Lyttelton, former Governor of New Zealand, wrote about it:

We were only in 1950, and construction of the first road to the Doubtful Sound had not even yet begun.

This fjord is three times longer and ten times larger than the famous Milford Sound. It will join the UNESCO world heritage in 1990.

Most New Zealanders were even unaware of its existence.

To see one of the world's most beautiful scenery, you will have to take many roads, and go around obstacles as well. The full-day trip lasts about 8 hours. An itinerary which requires several alternate transports, by land or sea.

If you have the soul of an explorer, you can contemplate the Doubtful Sound with your own eyes. With the feeling of having discovered an intact nature, where wildlife has been preserved for thousands of years.

This will be our first step of the journey and one of my first favorites. At dawn, the sun colors the lake with its golden rays.

Legend says that the two daughters of a Maori chief were lost in a forest. One of them was seriously wounded after a fall.

Her sister refused to abandon her, and their tears gave birth to Lake Manapouri.

Let's embark on the ship to cross the lake. Once off the shore, the panorama is even more spectacular.

Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the lake of 142 km2 has 34 islands covered with forests. But this dream landscape was close to disappear…

Let us go back in time until 1959. Back then, it was originally planned to flood the valley to create a dam.

The level of the lake would have increased by more than 30 meters, engulfing the islands and forests.

It's the entire ecosystem that would have been destroyed, to produce electricity.

More than 265,000 New Zealanders signed a petition to prevent a major environmental disaster. Forced to give up, the government revised its plans, and the flood project was abandoned.

Protecting the environment became a national cause.

Even today it is not uncommon to see the government refusing the exploitation of natural resources, due to the pressure of public opinion.

The crossing of the lake takes about one hour. The mountain that rises before us seems unbridgeable. However, we must pass through to reach the Doubtful Sound.

It is the driver who will be our guide during the trip. Cheerful, he sometimes takes the time to stop, giving explanations about the forest wonders. The foam even covers the trunks of trees. Ferns occupy any space. It is a green wall, impenetrable.

It took courage to first travelers to make their way in such a wild and impracticable environment.

The road construction in itself has beaten all records. Imagine an exorbitant cost of two dollars per square centimeter (eight times more than expected). The first three months of work have been a true hell under a continuous downpour.

We arrive at Wilmot Pass (670 m above sea level) which gives access to the other side of the mountain. This stopover possesses the first observation deck on the Doubtful Sound.

About fifty years ago, only a few adventurers could enjoy such a panorama.

Cleve Garth Falls gush from the top of a rocky ridge. They fall from 365 meters. In the distance, you can contemplate the magnificent Doubtful Sound.

An old dead tree adds a dramatic note to the location. Nature has composed a unique landscape, perhaps the most beautiful and wilderness of New Zealand.

You had probably not expected to make a new friend!

The kea is the only mountain’s parrot in the world. This wonderful bird is also the most intelligent of his kind.

You can expect to see him approaching without fear to beg for food. However, do not make the mistake of giving him anything.

It is a wild bird, and it must remain so for his own good.

Keep in mind that his sharp beak does not make him a playmate. The kea is known to attack sheep sometime.

Stay away and he will direct his attention to his favorite target: the bus. Perched on the mirrors, he gleefully attacks the rubber seals.

I don’t know the reason for this behavior. It will make everyone laugh, except perhaps the owner of the bus…

Gradually, global warming melted the ice. The Tasman Sea rushed into the valley to give birth to Doubtful Sound, a fjord with spectacular dimensions.

The first observation when you arrive at the dock of Deep Cove, is that there is no risk of being disturbed by a crowd of tourists! The other big fjord of the region, the Milford Sound,, is constantly overflown by planes and helicopters.

Here, nothing of a sort, we are virtually alone in the wild nature.

Only one person lives on-site throughout the year (you have to love the solitude).

A few companies share the tourist exploitation of the fjord. You can choose between a three-hour cruise or the opportunity to spend a night aboard a sailboat. Of course, these two types of travel don’t have the same price...

Our guide Ben the Kiwi will give you all the information on this topic further down in the page.

Some boats have sails, but they essentially propelled with engines. Captain Cook was right not to venture into these dark waters. Sometimes the wind is not blowing for days, immobilizing ships.

Once on board, you should be aware of safety instructions. Depending on the size of the boat, seasickness can be felt. You may consider the usage of medication. Crews are known for their enthusiasm and kindness, do not hesitate to ask their advice during the drip.

Audio information will be given during the cruise. The rest of the time you can admire the landscape. Depending on the weather, you'll be on the bridge, or sheltered in the cabins. This is the perfect time to enjoy a sandwich. Hot drinks (tea or coffee) are free and served at will!

The layer closest to the surface is fresh water deposited by rain. However, a few meters of the surface, we find the salty sea water..

The layers filter the light that does not penetrate deeply. A variety of black coral, that is usually found at 40 meters deep was able to grow here, only a few meters from the surface where divers can easily swim.

On sunny days, the sheer cliffs project their reflection on the black waters of the fjord.

Vegetation on the mountainside grows on a layer of very thin soil.

Sometimes tree roots break off. Especially in winter when the snow weight increases the pressure on the branches.

Real avalanches of trees can occur at any moment.

Some cliffs still bear the marks of recent earthquakes.

Once offshore, the captain cut the engine for a few minutes. It's an incredible feeling! The Maori name of Doubtful Sound is "Patea", which means "the home of the silence".

The atmosphere is quiet, with only the singing of birds and the distant sound of water falling from the cliffs.

You can always try to count the falls and cascades ... In rainy weather, there are about 500! Helena Falls, close to Deep Cove, is falling a distance of 220 meters.

Much more impressive, Browne Falls is located in the Hall branch (on of the many fjord branches).

With 836 meters in height, it is the 9th highest waterfall in the world.

Most of the cascades have not been mapped. Nothing prevents you to name the one you like the most.

Your friends who didn't have the courage to come will console themselves by looking at your pictures of the many rainbows. But they will be even more disappointed to have missed the rest of the trip.

Other species populate the waters of the fjord. If you have decided to spend one night on board, you can taste some lobster or crayfish caught next to the starfish.

You may be lucky enough to spot dolphins near Malaspina Reach.

Few years ago, the dolphin number was close to 70. Without any obvious reason, the dolphin group is now of approximately forty members. We cannot exclude that tourism is the real cause of the decline.

Hence the prohibition for the tourism ships to approach certain parts of the fjord.

Therefore, if our captain spots dolphins, he will signal their presence to us, but he is not allowed to change the ship direction for this sole reason. However, if the dolphins voluntarily choose to swim near the boat, this is not a problem.

On my last trip, I could admire a dolphin and her baby trying to do a race with our ship.

To my knowledge, this is the only place in the country where you can observe dolphins (up to 4.5 m). These wonderful creatures can be admired all over New Zealand, but you will most often see Hector dolphins, a much smaller species.

On a clear day, the vessel seems to glide across the water. You'll probably have enough time to reach the Tasman Sea before turning back.

Several whale species are likely to come your way. Orcas are sometimes present, but more difficult to observe.

Pay attention to the foot of the cliffs. The blue penguins are very shy, but easy to spot when they climb on the rocks. Your chance to take a good picture will increase if you use the burst mode of your camera. These adorable creatures have the ability to move at the very moment when you press the shutter button of the camera.

The sea lion colonies are easier to spot. They come to bask in the sun on the rocks near the Tasman Sea. If you have enough time during your trip, a kayaking tour on the Fjord allows to observe the sea lions without disturbing them. Paddling alone in the morning fog, in absolute tranquility is an unforgettable experience.

The bravest may swim if the weather is hot enough. I confess I have never tried. Wait a moment before making fun of me! Fishermen often find small white sharks in their nets! This shark specie is afraid of humans, but I would not dare leaving my toes in the water.

Jokes aside, you can expect an average of 200 days of rain a year... Imagine 6 or 7 meters of precipitation flowing each year (with a record of 67 days of continuous rain). It's not a big surprise if every square centimeter of the mountains is covered with a thick layer of green moss.

The extraordinary falls are fading when the sun returns, making us almost regretting the rain.One must understand that this is the price to pay to contemplate such a wonder of nature. Bad weather is not to fear during this trip, it is even desirable!

A warm sweater, a good wax: that's all you need.The vessel is fast and a strong wind may blow. Bring your best cap to keep your ears warm. Most of the time, you’ll be on the deck but you can hide in the cabin if necessary. The weather varies from one extreme to another, do not be discouraged.

If you need one reason to endure the rain, here is the best one. The sandflies, these microscopically small flies are your only true enemy in this region. The bites itch and leave red marks on the skin for several weeks.

Maori say that the God Tu-te-raki-whanoa is at the origin of Doubtful Sound. But his creation was so perfect that men were just staring at the landscape and the mighty God had to create sandflies to make them move.

The weakness of these demons is their extreme slowness. They are unable to sting moving targets. Sandflies fear the rain, but will return as soon as the rain stops (except during winter).

I advise you to use a repellent before leaving in the morning (you can buy some in Manapouri) and you'll be protected for the rest of the day.

Many tourists complain about sandflies all day long. What eventually ends up annoying the inhabitants of the region.

So, keep smiling and remember that in this fabulous country, there are no snakes and even spiders are rare, which is already extraordinary.

It's a long day of travel, but it's one of the best tours of the country. The trip itself is amazing and you will come back with an incredible number of pictures.

I am often asked whether to prefer the Milford Sound or the Doubtful Sound in New Zealand. It’s a difficult question. Milford Sound is probably more contrasted with narrow cliffs and a road which is magnificent. But the Doubtful Sound is broader, more varied with dense vegetation and far more peaceful.

If you must choose, I recommend you check the weather and your wallet first. Remember that the rain is not your enemy. However, the mist can put the expedition in jeopardy. I don’t suggest to book this activity several months in advance.

Considering the high price, and the distance, the place is never crowded. Even in summer, you should be able to find a place at the last minute.

Of course, last-minute bookings expose yourself to find no seats. But the proximity of Te Anau offers many alternatives such as Milford Sound or the glowworm caves.

But during the low season, it is not uncommon to travel in the company of a dozen people only.

You do not come here by chance, you have to be motivated and passionate by nature. This is an opportunity to make beautiful encounters. In winter, the price of the excursion is much cheaper, and it rains less often.

If you can afford it, you should spend a night in the fjord.

You may have the chance to observe the fjord under the moonlight, follow a kayak tour, go fishing or hiking.

Ben the Kiwi will help you plan your trip. Feel free to send us your best photos. We will publish them on Kiwipal, because we are always delighted to see pictures of our readers in New Zealand!