Bay of Islands, the Dolphins' Paradise.

You can expect to have good weather. Northland is the sunniest and most pleasant region of the country (followed closely by the Abel Tasman National Park).

New Zealanders speak of the “North without winter”. The climate is subtropical during summer (december to february) and mild the rest of the year.

Having said that, Bay of Islands is far from being a simple postcard. A thousand years ago, the ancestors of the Maoris landed on these shores for the first time.

Centuries later, the arrival of Western settlers engendered terrible conflicts that gave birth to New Zealand.

Despite its incredible popularity and historical interest, the region remains wild. There are only a few villages which serve as base camp to go on an adventure. Being a true paradise for both sailors and fishermen, Bay of Islands would deserve a stay of several weeks. As most of you are just planning a road trip across the country, I will go straight to the point.

We will concentrate on the best activities in the bay. On our way, I'll tell you some legends about the region. Apart from the discovery of the cities, I have also planned some diving and a nice surprise ... We will also swim with dolphins, explore idyllic islands and enjoy sunbathing on white-sand beaches.

When you stroll through the streets, you could believe that the village has not changed since its founding during the 1800s. This is a romantic place with a pleasant sweet life. One cannot imagine for a second that the destiny of New Zealand was born in these streets.

Turn the clock back to the 19th century. At that time, the city is still called Kororareka (its old Maori name).

Charles Darwin, who made a stopover here during a scientific exploration in 1835 described the city as the worst place he ever saw in his life and called it “a real refuge for the dregs of humanity”.

Russell is so infamous, it is even nicknamed the “Hell Hole of the Pacific” (and a deadly place where you could be killed any time).

The British and the French has not yet claimed the sovereignty of the country. There is absolutely no government, no one in charge and no laws!

Kororareka is a den of thieves, one where you stop only after many months at sea, and if it's impossible to do otherwise.

The waterfront is occupied by about thirty gambling dens plunged in total anarchy. In this sordid place you meet any kind of adventurers, deserters and escaped prisoners from Australian jails.

Kororareka is somehow the Turtle Island of New Zealand, without the Caribbean pirates.

Yet it is in this dangerous place that Christian missionaries try to introduce the holy bible. I let you imagine the difficulty of the enterprise...

Especially when the intentions of the Maori population are not crystal clear and you can hear persistent rumors of cannibalism.

But some missionaries have their own lecture of the bible... and they do not hesitate to marry Maori women while selling weapons to their brothers.

Obviously, such a situation could not last forever. Two Maori chief's daughters are in love with a British captain, and the situation soon escalates into a violent dispute between tribes. .

A hundred deaths later, the missionaries realize that they can't do anything to restore peace, and decide to send an emissary to seek help from the British crown.

Today's Russell share nothing with the old Kororareka but there remain some marks of the past.

The Anglican Church of 1836 is one of the rare buildings having survived though the centuries. By visiting the old cemetery, you'll notice the bullet impacts on the tombstones.

So much for the history of the region. I suppose you are like me impatient to discover the Bay of Islands. Make sure that you have taken your camera then meet me on the jetty for the beginning of our visit.

First stop to Urupukapuka, one of the largest islands in the bay, with a great sandy beach.

Many dolphins escort the boat on several occasions. Do not be impatient, we will soon have the opportunity to spend more time with them.

An easy fifteen minutes hike leads to the highest point of the island that provides a stunning view of the many other islands of the bay.

If you are already planning to come back one day, I recommend the guided archaeological tour. A trail runs through the forest and climbs on the back of the hills where you explore the ruins of ancient Maoris villages.

This being said, if you do not like walking, Urupukapuka is also regarded as the best fishing spot of the Bay of Islands.

Back on the cruise, we sail to the Brett Cape on the cutting edge of the peninsula. The first encounter between the Maori and the Westerners happened here, and by a strange coincidence, this is also the very same place where first Maoris arrived centuries ago.

I challenge you to pronounce the original name of the Cape Brett: “Rakaumangamanga Mai Hawaiki Herenga Waka o Nga Tupuna”. It means “The branches of the many tribes of Hawaiki, the gathering of the canoes of our ancestors”.

According to the legend, the seven peaks beyond the cliffs represent the seven canoes that crossed the seas during the great migration.

Next stop will allow us to reach the Cape Brett's lighthouse built in 1908. From that height, you can see the island of Piercy.

This huge rock partly covered by forest is inaccessible to man. Part of the base has been carved by erosion and the passage formed is called “Hole in the Rock”. It looks like the ark of Cathedral Cove..

We will have the opportunity to approach the island. And if the sea is not too rough, our ship can cross the hole in the rock. Then, I promised you a surprise, and I'll keep my promise...

This is one of the most beautiful diving spots in the world. Of course, this activity requires a minimum of experience. I know that many of you dream of living such a great experience. This is not the best place to learn (diving on a wreck is far too dangerous for beginners), but there are many other diving spots available all over the bay.

The marine fauna and flora took possession of the wreck 113 meters long. The cabins, the corridors and the control station, are all accessible and filled where thousands of fish live. This is not as if you were diving the Titanic and there is no risk to get lost or to be trapped somewhere. You'll be anyway under the supervision of a team of expert divers.

Another famous wreck is located in the region. The Greenpeace Rainbow Warrior rests in Mataury Bay and several tour operators organize diving sessions on site. Nearby, a monument on the Cavalli Island commemorates the terrorist attack that has long poisoned diplomatic relations between France and New Zealand.

Both dives justify investing in a new camera or a waterproof GoPro to film your experience. The colors and the lights are just amazing!!

At the return, we will dock in Paihia on the opposite side of the bay, just in front of Russell.

The city is mainly the point of departure of most activities of the region. Just have a walk on the pier or Marsden Road to register for countless tours on the sea, with or without guiding.

If I had to recommend only one activity, I'll suggest a kayak tour on the Waitangi River. It runs through the mangrove forests to reach the Haruru Falls.

This experience can even be done under the stars! I let you imagine the sight of the falls in the moonlight!

On my last visit I tried the parasailing.

If you want to see the bay from the sky, it is much cheaper than booking an helicopter guided tour. You will go up to nearly 300 meters above sea level to enjoy breathtaking views.

I have just one regret: the time spent in the air is quite short and lasts 8 to 12 minutes.

So, if you just prefer to relax a little, Paihia has three long sandy beaches, Horotutu, Main Beach and Te Ti. Large lawns are also available and allow to rest even if you came without a beach towel.

When you have sufficiently enjoyed the beach, enjoyed ice cream or a drink at a café's terrace, please take the bridge over the Waitangi River. I'll be on the other side to continue the visit.

The treaty intended to give equal rights for all citizens of the island, but was not respected in many ways. Very controversial in its interpretation (English and Maori translations differ on some crucial points), it has since been reconsidered.

Even today, a special court investigates complaints and grant compensation or give back properties occupied by the state in violation of the Treaty.

There are still some tensions between communities, but the overwhelming majority of the Kiwis now have the feeling of belonging to the same nation.

The Waitangi Treaty Ground visit is the best way to understand the origin of the Treaty. The tour begins with a portrait gallery of the signatories. You will remove your shoes to enter the impressive Whare Runanga marae. Each carved pillars represents a tribe(including the one from Rotorua) who signed the original statement.

The visit then continues through a forest and ends when you reach a shelter on the beach where Matawhaorua, the largest war canoe in the world, is located.

Remarkably decorated, it bears its name in homage to the canoe of Kupe, the first explorer of New Zealand. Each year during Waitangi Day, the canoe requires no less than a hundred strong rowers to navigate in the bay.

I hope we will not need so many people to pilot the ship that will lead us to meet the dolphins of the bay!

Most Kiwis could tell you the story of Pelorus Jack. Between 1888 and 1912, this faithful dolphin accompanied the ships making the crossing between Wellington and Nelson.

Pelorus devint si populaire qu'une loi fut même votée pour assurer sa protection.

We will book one of the many excursions departing from Paihia. The dolphin encounter is not 100% guaranteed, but it does happen 9 times out of 10. Regarding the specie itself, it's basically Grand dolphins between 2 and 4 meters long and an average weight of 250 kg! They are fairly easy to spot in the bay.

Although they are naturally curious, dolphins do not always seek contact with humans. This wild creature, however, needs to live peacefully. Some rules were introduced to ensure the protection of the species.

We are on time and luck is with us! Dolphins are reported at starboard. The suits, masks and snorkels are provided by the tour operator. Before entering the water, I remind you that only dolphins can decide if they want to establish contact with you.

It is important to provide a period of adaptation to the dolphins, as we are entering their world and not the opposite.

Another important rule to remember is that a dolphin must be approached only by the sides. These rules are not difficult to follow because the dolphin usually do the same with humans.

I have noticed that one of the best ways to get them interested is to swim under water rather than staying on the surface. Naturally curious, dolphins love to come to play with swimmers.

You may be a little bit impressed at first when dolphins leap out of the water. They can also stand still while staring at you.

An eye contact with a dolphin is such a magical moment!

Just observe their behavior and recognize when playtime is over. If theyaccelerate or dive deep, it's time to get back on board. We'll get dry in the sun on the deck during the return trip. But keep an eye open, because the dolphins often decide to do a race with the boat.

About accommodation, I recommend staying in Russell which has more charm. But there are nearly 50 different hotels in Paihia and therefore more choices. In all cases, it is imperative to book in advance, including some very popular activities (especially the swimming with dolphins). If the climate is still pleasant, you may be disappointed when the sun is hiding behind clouds... one may regret not to find the postcard landscapes expected. But, with the sun or not, dolphins expect you all the year.

The ideal solution is to rent your own boat to explore the islands. An activity that you may not consider if you travel in New Zealand for the first time. But you still have the possibility to hire the services of different water taxis companies that will drop you on an island and take you back later.

I have not addressed the question of cruises over several days. You can always consider this option if you do not get seasick easily and if you still have enough cash to spend.

But if you don't mind spending even more money, you could also consider flying over the bay by plane or helicopter (quite expensive but absolutely unforgettable!).

If you stay in the Bay of Islands, remember that Cape Reinga is only a few hours away. I bet you have never driven a car on a beach or surfed on giant sand dunes ... The Northlandcontinues to surprise us anytime!

Unless you go to Cape Reinga, you can make a detour to Kerikeri 25 km from Paihia. Less crowded than the other cities in the region, the city is however much more dynamic. Located inland Kerikeri benefits from a subtropical climate that favors plantations and vineyards.

The shops and restaurants of Kerikeri serve fresh regional products. One more reason to stop here before hitting the road again. A quick stroll through the streets allows you to admire Kemp House, the oldest building in the country, miraculously spared during the Muskets War.

And now (drum roll) please welcome the true king of the Bay of Islands, our great Ben the Kiwi. Voted Kiwipal's best guide, he has traveled these shores during his childhood. He is well placed to give you some practical advice and recommend some additional visits. Feel free to ask him any questions to prepare your tailor-made trip.